![]() ![]() “My” method, explained below, comes from Epicurie, forum C2C 2004 (in French).ġ- Clip small loop of ATC or Reverso to the harness with a carabinerĢ- Clip a second carabiner to a neck collar (it’s better to make an-8 harness on shoulders, carabiner hanging on the sternum. They are very similar, but for solo belaying, ACT is better. Well, after this necessary preliminary,let’s explain: To belay I use ATC-guide or Reverso (used as the auto-blocking X, click climber on the left). See also a tested system with a Grigri plus a Shunt Système Grigri + Shunt Grigri ouvert vu de près + noeud Grigri is less expensive and lighter, but less safe I guess (see the Grigri solo belay: C2C 2010 in French). I do not use auto-belaying frequently enough to buy it, but I think you should. But it is expensive ($250) and heavy (450g). The ONLY device I think is correct and safe is the Silent Parner, Wren Industries. The rope-to-rope friction will make rope to melt, and breal. However, when a first climber falls, the huge energy will force rope over side-by-side with rope under. According to a device manufacturer, auto-blocking funtion is made to block the second climber: rope over blocks rope under. The method explained below is not recommended by device makers, and has no safety garanty: if you use it, it is your responsibility. And to be able to escape from a high and long route, if my partner was wounded, and if a short section was too difficult for me to climb it alone To climb harder than 5b (my climbing-down limit). I use to climb integral solo without belaying, with two gold rules : being able to climb-down every step, and no objective hazard (no stones falling, solid rock).Ģ008 I decided to test auto-belaying. ![]() Climbing alone is even more dangerous (e.g., Serious Accident. ![]()
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